Himalayan pilgrimage part I: Dharmalaya

When I look back on my summer study travels, often it is the flavor and tenor of those places, the light and coziness of spaces, people, their pasts and so many interlinked stories, that fill my heart with some unknown affection, as though I have spread my roots into those places and people, as though they are very much part of my being…

Every day of my stay in Himachal, I woke up to the vision of Dhauladhar snow peaks. I thanked them every day for their mystical blessings that reached me through people, food and endless conversations.

The learning and growing of every pilgrim like me is made possible by these places and people. The smallest things in my routine life remind me of their smiling faces and I feel some warm and pleasant heartache.

I wish to narrate what happened on this Himalayan pilgrimage, and how it has altered me irreversibly… But I doubt if I can convey fully everything I have to say, while tides of love and joy burst against the walls of my heart, even at the thought of this journey… I am still too overwhelmed… Too touched to be able to find crisp words for everything… But I must write this now, with all this vulnerability still alive in me… And I hope that no matter how confused or ambiguous I may write, something will reach you just between those awkward lines.

There are three distinct legs of this journey that were staged through three different places in the Kangra District of Himachal Pradesh. The visions, experiences, challenges, and their solutions evolve into an overall flavor of first two places. It keeps climbing and intensifying with every passing day… coming together into an unexpected climax of the story in its last week — a beautiful closing note to a melodious song.

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It starts way up in the awe-inspiring hills of the Dhauladhar range, winding through the half-asleep village of Bir, when we were dropped at the fringe of a pine wood to hike the last stretch up a hill to reach Dharmalaya. Walking up to the campus with all your baggage is the first gateway into the ‘Dharmalaya lifestyle’ that awaits us up top! And, there, the valley encircled with hills provides a literally breathtaking distraction!

That first vision of Himalayan peaks after so long… every time, it unfailingly takes you away from your urban presence. Your name, designations and credentials are all washed away. You become a being… a clean and simple unit of existence, cleansed and ready to live a life in the hills.

Dharmalaya is a place that functions as an opportunity for learning a sustainable lifestyle by practicing it. Although it is a campus still in the making, it already lives and grows, true to its fundamentals.

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The place staged some simple and obvious challenges that, surprisingly, I had never faced before. It feels differently alive when you work toward the naked, crude reality of survival and stand straight, holding your head high, looking up into the face of a lofty mountain, and smile…

And there were my personal attempts to overcome past records! It is astonishing how much one can accomplish even after crossing the known limits of physical or mental exhaustion. Exhaustion is possibly just an illusory barrier after all, beyond which lies the world of personal miracles!

Every evening, when I would let myself become aware of how tired I was, it felt absolutely the opposite! I felt eased, as if all my limbs were completely relaxed after such a long time! I realize that it was because they had worked well beyond their limit of exhaustion! I would watch sunburns and bruises on my arms and legs, and wonder why it did not hurt even in near-freezing cold wind. But my hands have known a worse pain: that of spotless, useless idleness… bruises rather feel better!

I would think of quiet, peaceful afternoons back home… times when I watched my clean and spotless hands, hurting inside, for I was hungry to know what I could do with those.

It gave me some violent pleasure to think of clean hands while I mixed and danced in cold mud, wiped wooden molds for another batch of adobes… or got funny, throbbing blisters after a day of sod cutting.

There have been long evenings back home when I used to sit motionless through meetings, feeling a dead, heavy fatigue in my legs, for I was dying to find out how far I could hike or run through wilderness with those legs, as I know every human is born to do! It gave me the same violent pleasure to think of those idle evenings while I actually went jumping over boulders through possibly some of world’s most pristine hills, feeling light, strong and so so alive! Village dogs often joined me and raced through the trees by my side, with a grave look of comradeship in their hairy, warm faces.

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Of course there were quiet moments here as well, when there was warm, buttery sunshine and I could stretch out under some random, beautiful oak tree, thinking about nothing too human… Simply balancing sun and shadow over my body, according to how cold or warm it felt that day… Or finding the most comfortable angle to rest my neck into the rough lovely tree trunk! And then somehow the hills would become silent for a long time.

I know I was not there on a holiday! There was architecture happening, taking shape among all of us. We were breaking through the most obvious assumptions in architectural practice and starting our thought process at the very beginning… Somewhere near the instinct of ‘shelter making’.

It frustrates the best of us when we realize that, in the course of sophistication, we have let our instincts rot for generations. We have no clue of how to survive! Most people remain unskilled in this way because they simply do not know there is something lacking. Our schools and colleges have ensured that we remain oblivious to reality. But when one realizes what is missing, it becomes a personal challenge to learn things, to do things by hand… and to know that the most beautiful attribute of human anatomy is its ability to learn and do and create — an ability that often remains untapped!

I am not going to quantify and spoil all the learning that happened to me… To be honest, I cannot measure the depth and intensity of changes that these lessons have brought and are continuing to bring. The lessons of life and architecture have blended together inseparably. I simply believe that they will seep into my being and express themselves as I encounter relevant situations in the design of life. Nobody knows where this learning may take me with time. Slowly, I am starting to appreciate the beauty of this ‘not-knowing’ — a fat achievement for someone who has been such a control freak for years!

There is meditative pleasure in doing things by hand, and it grows deeper and more compellingly addictive with time. For example, before using soil for making earth blocks, one needs to set aside the precious top soil layer, for it contains all the organic nutritive treasures of life. Cutting chunks of sod and replanting them as part of landscaping can, in fact, turn into a blissfully exhausting experience. It also teaches one to watch carefully, at the scale and amount of ecological damage that has to happen in course of building anything, even with the least processed forms of earth construction.

Earth is a highly instructive teacher when we stop being morons and allow her to lead the way. She teaches us to look at life carefully… to treasure it and, at the very least, to limit our destructive activities and find ways to heal life as much as we possibly can.

Every time we make a choice of saving or healing, we must also be prepared to put in additional time, human effort, skill and sensitivity, because acts of benignity cannot be purchased: they must be ‘done’. But somehow modern man often does not care about investing these trivial things into a building activity. He has built his systems such that they compel him to become more and more insensitive, unskilled, thoughtless, and yet surprisingly too busy to do things!

So, probably, we are a funny bunch of people trying to turn the wheel back, while the rest of the world is moving forward. But the increasing number of restless architects setting out to find hands-on work opportunities definitely means something. It hints at things we have lost with time — things that are human and possibly even trivial, but things we have started to miss in our daily lives. It is instinctive and apt for a human to want to go back to the basics and relearn those things. It is no more going back in time; it is not reversing the wheels of development. It is simply nurturing our roots to have better grip in the future.

Apart from making adobes and maintaining the existing building, we also had a design task to finish in two weeks’ time: We had to build a toilet, by hand, without using any industrially manufactured, purchased building material, and without using and help from outside.

Indeed, we did install a dry pit toilet with a bamboo enclosure at Dharmalaya, but only after two highly eventful weeks. It started out with long discussions, calculations, sketches, frustrating setbacks and redesigns. Through this, we architects discovered that none of us actually knew how to build!

So, we learned to select bamboo, clean their nodes and then cut the right lengths. We scavenged the hill slopes with our local thatch consultants, learning to select the right kind of grass for thatch roofing. And at the end, one sunny day, we had heaps of harvested grass — and no frame on which to tie it!

One needs something to tie bamboo joints together. Again, we ran to our local skill consultants and Rajinder bhaiyya showed us how, for generations, they have been making ropes out of the bark fibre of a specific tree that they call ‘dhaman’. After several frustrating and failed attempts at rope-making, finally our hands learned to roll the fibres into a rope! Rope-making is like a rhythmic dance that goes on into timelessness once we learn the motions well. I sat through a beautiful sunset, my eyes closed against the pleasant reddish-purple glow on the horizon, while my hands played with the bark fibres, rolling out seamless, neat spirals of rope. What a blessing it is to be alive!

There were several things happening around us in loosely connected dynamics: We were splitting bamboos, cutting bamboos, tying joints, falling, cutting ourselves, laughing into hysteria — and some of us snoring through the evening sessions!

One day, with outdoor work stalled by bad weather, we had fun with a new instrument: a glass cutter. Using this tool for cutting glass bottles was a quiet, precision task, and I had the warm glow of candle flame right by my side. All the cut bottles will be wrapped in reflective foils and embedded in earthen walls as tiny, glowing day lights.

There was a platter of tasks from which we could pick and choose, learning whatever we pleased! There were a thousand more things I could have learned, but I learned what I could gather in the time available and made a note to myself about things that I now know must be learned.

Dharmalaya is also a place where one learns to live as a community and participates in its daily chores. Unlike urban settings, no invisible cleaning staff comes here to maintain this place while we are oblivious to their presence, busy at work. We are our own janitors, cooks and housekeepers. Tasks as simple as chopping fruits and vegetables, cleaning the kitchen, dishwashing, and toilet cleaning have a very deep effect within us when we perform them with full attention. Chores were indeed highly contemplative opportunities to continue what we were striving to learn outdoors.

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One cannot drift through and remain untouched by the pristine hills and humble lifestyle at Dharmalaya. It is a hard life if not accepted with full understanding — as hard as reaching this place is!

Still, somehow it is much harder to leave this place, once we catch the rhythm of it. Yes, it has a heartbeat of its own that throbs in dung-plastered walls and in a solitary light beam stretched from the ceiling across the earth floor… a pulse that is the sum total of many hearts and hands that have shaped this place.

Himalayan Pilgrimage Part II: Sambhaavnaa

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MNIK, World Peace and SRK’s Epiglottis!

So here it goes, as expected… about the one whose name is Khan… Khan, from the epiglottis, by the way! But before I do that I must confess that I am one of those shahrukh haters, who are actually Amir Lovers, (though not lover enough to be called a fan or anything…)

This very commonly unattractive looking Delhi boy came up to Mumbai and became King Khan (don’t forget the right pronunciation! Khan, that’s from the epiglottis!) And with his larger-than-life attitude, style and confidence he covered up for his inadequate frame and looks. About acting skills, it never marks for much in main stream bolly-flicks!

They seem to believe that if you stay stuck in the industry for long enough, you learn up to fool the cameras (and viewers) to think you can act…. And as you get exposed to better and better directors, naturally your acting skills (if there are traces of any) are honed and polished. Many of the Bollywood stars have been hopeless actors in the beginning….but with perseverance and most importantly zero sensitivity towards criticism; they learnt acting and stardom both….

So now this very same SRK has now come up with a new concoction of love and tears…. But so very unlike his usual brand! I have to confess that he seems to actually act these days…. At some points in the movie he was almost out of his silver celebrity-hood, being a real sensitive man out there! After years of toiling…..seems he is really a star enough to shine! He can repair almost anything, (he says so in the movie) and that includes his acting!

The movie has this whole big concept of universal love that goes beyond the fences of race, color and nationality. Terrorism is not born of any religion, but it is born of narrow minded, weak-heart, selfish people who are born in any nation, any race, any religion! The only difference that can be made amongst people is whether they are good or bad. It is the goodness of heart that makes man a man…..

The Karan Johar, Shahrukh Khan and Kajol trio seems to make justice to this really big concept. While defending the basic of religion, which is always humanity, they do not attack anyone else. Use of different verses from Koran Sharif has added great justification and sense of faith.

If you are little more mature than SRK, you will know that humanity, love and religion are not just so shallow as to choose between a bullet and a rose. humanity is only the first step… religion and faith are much deeper realms of truth than that to explore. But for a traveler on the road towards the truth, humanity is not a negligible milestone. It takes more than a human body, to become a human in true sense. And MNIK, though not high enough to cross the humanity, at least manages to touch it!

I will not discuss the story, though I must mention that it is structured very well. It is quick where it must be, and it lingers, giving emphasis at right points. Though you must put up with the melodrama part of bollywoodian culture! That is what makes a movie digestible to masses! And for Amir Khan Lovers, if you could stand the melodrama of 3 Idiots, SRK has dished out too little for your appetite!

But when it comes to screenplay, Shibani Bathija has managed to touch every nook of the concept, yet not make it sound like a documentary! Right from the references of Mumbai riots to 9/11, every reaction, every socio-cultural transform is captured well….that too, on a global scale. She has indeed managed to yield the best of story possible. In addition, there is also family bonding part (which cannot be forsaken by KJo!)

Knowing Karan Johar and the way he puts in money where he must, the cinematography and locations are very well done. It is not always Swiss meadows in the background! Arizona desert landscapes and dusty raw American locations make it look a lot more realistic than I expected from KJo! But he gets a negative marking for the set up of a village in Georgia. In some scenes it kind of shows up as a toy village indeed!

Overall, the big message and story rules out all the flaws and makes you watch the movie in rapt attention throughout. I would say make a point to watch it if you are not as busy as the President of America. And it is not much of a hindi film, considering most conversations go in English. And a special note, to watch this movie, you do not have to be a Khan, an Indian or even an Asian….. It can be watched by global viewer, of any country, any race. If you have seen or suffered the burns of terrorism of any kind, violent or subtle, you will understand and identify with this movie very easily.

PS: It is ironical coincidence why ShivSena chose to oppose this movie of all! SRK has enough bad movies to protest against! But they chose the exact movie that is going to ensure mass support towards SRK…. There is a saying in Sanskrit, Vinash Kaale Vipareet Buddhi meaning, when it is time to perish, you take wrong decisions on your own.

http://www.shahrukh.com/wp_wife.cfm Please visit this link from SRK’s official blog. Very genuine and lovely entry indeed! (God! Am I praising this man?!)